Gelato shops in Tokyo, 25 mapped by NUM, with a quick way to tell the ones churning their own from the ones scooping a base.
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Premarche Gelateria — A small Naka-Meguro shop with a rotating list built on Japanese seasonal produce, including some flavors that sound odd and turn out not to be. Handy for a walk along the Meguro River. (35.6433, 139.6994) · Directions ↗
Giolitti Cafe Yurakucho — A Tokyo outpost of the historic Roman gelateria, in Yurakucho. The pick for anyone who wants to compare Tokyo's gelato against a Roman benchmark without leaving the Ginza side of town. (35.6744, 139.7638) · Directions ↗Japan's food-labeling rules sort frozen desserts by milk content. Aisu kurīmu (ice cream) must contain at least 15% milk solids including 8% milk fat; aisu miruku needs 10% and 3%; rakuto aisu can have as little as 3% milk solids and is often made with vegetable fat. Gelato is naturally lower in fat than ice cream, so good gelato can legitimately be labeled aisu miruku. It is the rakuto aisu label, on a supermarket tub, that marks the cheap stuff.
Gelateria Theobroma for chocolate, Premarche Gelateria in Naka-Meguro for seasonal Japanese flavors, Giolitti Cafe in Yurakucho for the Roman style, and Nakamura Tokichi in Ginza for matcha.
Look for flat surfaces or covered steel tins rather than tall glossy heaps, and colors that match the fruit: pistachio should be dull greenish-brown, not bright green. A list that changes with the season is another good sign.
NUM's directory maps 25 gelato shops in Tokyo, clustered around Shibuya, Meguro, Ginza and Yanaka.
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